Hyperpigmentation, Discolouration And Melasma
- Oct 11, 2024
- 8 min read
Updated: Aug 2
Ida is a certified aesthetician (graduate of Marvel School of Beauty), offering home-based services since 1994. Ida provides various holistic services. She graduated from Zanqara’s Skin Care’s Dermatician course in 1994, which required her to understand homeopathic remedies.
Melanin is the pigment responsible for our skin, hair, and eye colour, acting as a natural shield that helps absorb and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It also functions as an antioxidant, helping to neutralize free radicals caused by environmental stressors, which supports the overall maintenance and healthy appearance of the skin. Our family history largely determines the type and amount of melanin in our bodies, but environmental factors, diet, and certain medical conditions can also influence its production. Many people seek quick, permanent solutions to melanin-related issues, but understanding the different types of melanin and other factors affecting pigmentation can help manage these concerns more effectively. This article delves into the types of melanin, the role of melanocytes, dietary influences, and other causes and prevention of hyperpigmentation.
Types of pigmentation
Eumelanin: This is a black and brown form responsible for darker skin, eyes, and hair colours.
Pheomelanin: This is a red and yellow colour found in red hair and pinkish areas like lips and nipples.
Neuromelanin: This is in the human brain.
The role of melanocytes in hyperpigmentation
Everyone has the same number of pigment-producing cells in the deepest layer of the skin’s epithelial cells. Every pigment-producing cell has tiny storage units of melanin, the spacing of these storage units is denser and more active in darker-toned individuals. Melasma or hyperpigmentation occurs when the unevenly distributed eumelanin and pheomelanin get overstimulated, increasing uneven pigment production in the skin responsible.
Metal's influence on skin pigmentation
Copper is essential for skin, hair, and eye pigmentation, aiding in melanin production through the enzyme tyrosinase. Consuming foods or supplements rich in copper can enhance the skin’s natural protection. Conversely, zinc competes with copper, reducing its levels and melanocyte activity, which can help manage hyperpigmentation. It is crucial to maintain a copper and zinc dietary balance.
The role of blaschko lines in pigmented patterns
In 1901, German dermatologist Alfred Blaschko described these lines as invisible pathways that trace how skin cells migrate and mature during embryonic development. Variations in skin tone or natural pigmentation can sometimes follow these developmental pathways, creating unique patterns on the skin's surface.
Causes of melasma or hyperpigmentation
Hormonal Fluctuations: Fluctuations in hormones – such as those associated with pregnancy, oral contraceptives, or hormone replacement therapies – are primary triggers for uneven skin tone. These hormonal shifts can influence vascular behavior and surface inflammation, contributing to hyperpigmentation.
Stress: Elevated stress levels prompt the adrenal glands to release cortisol. This hormonal response can cause internal imbalances that frequently manifest on the skin as localized darkening or melasma.
Systemic and Metabolic Factors: Certain underlying systemic shifts, particularly those relating to thyroid function, adrenal balance, or metabolic changes, can directly impact melanin pathways. When these internal systems experience temporary or chronic imbalances, it can manifest externally as dark patches on the skin. Consulting a healthcare professional to address these underlying wellness factors often helps restore a balanced skin appearance.
The effects of heat and solutions for controlling melanin
Heat increases pigment production by dilating underlying blood vessels. Those prone to melasma should minimize exposure to heat and UV light and cool the skin quickly when heated.
Eyeglasses and frames: Metal-framed glasses can reflect and overheat the cheeks, potentially causing hyperpigmentation. Plastic frames or mirrored sunglasses are better alternatives.
Protective facial masks trap heat against the skin, stimulating melasma and hyperpigmentation.
Prone body areas: Overweight people with dark skin can have pigmentation issues in the underarms and between the inner thighs. Slim people with darker skin tones also have darker skin under the arms caused by heat.
Heat exposure and hormonal fluctuations change approximately every seven years due to age and external factors.
UV radiation and blue light
UVA rays: The sun rays provide 95% UVA ray exposure. They are weaker and penetrate deeper to damage collagen, causing wrinkles and darkening existing melanin. Sun tanning beds emit damaging UVA rays. Some risk of squamous, basal, and melanoma-type skin cancer increases.
UVB rays: The sun rays provide 5% UVB ray exposure. They are more powerful and shorter; they stimulate protective melanin production to tan the skin and damage its DNA to produce sunspots and white spots. Their increased exposure raises the risk of squamous, basal, and melanoma-type skin cancer increases.
Blue light: Overexposure to blue light from LED electronic devices and LED lights can increase pigmentation, melanin production, and hyperpigmentation, especially in melasma-prone individuals.
Skin trauma and toxicity
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: This occurs following temporary skin irritation or surface blemishes, such as acne breakouts, which can leave behind temporarily darkened areas as the skin renews itself.
Environmental Exposures: Internal and external environmental factors can occasionally impact skin tone. For instance, prolonged exposure to certain heavy metals or specific minerals can lead to unusual variations in skin coloration.
Oily skin concerns
Excess sebum and environmental factors can lead to patchy skin, uneven texture, and surface congestion. This type of environment can easily disrupt the skin's natural microbiome balance, particularly in individuals with oily skin.
Photosensitive medications
Certain medications, such as antibiotics, arthritis medications, antidepressants, and antipsychotics, can promote pigmentation. Always check pharmaceutical information to avoid these issues.
Pigmentation issues with aging
As the skin ages, it is prone to pigmentation issues due to slower cell renewal and thinning skin, which offers less protection from environmental damage and melanocyte distribution.
Prevention and management strategies
Chemical sunscreens: Avoid ingredients like Avobenzone, Homosalate, Ocisalate, Ocrylene, Oxybenzone, and Ocinoxate. These ingredients absorb UV radiation, convert it to heat, and release it, potentially irritating the skin. They can also worsen melasma and hyperpigmentation.
Sun protection: Wearing broad-rimmed hats and UV-protective clothing can prevent sun-induced pigmentation. Tinted sunscreens contain iron oxides that protect against visible light, which can cause melasma. Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF of 30 or more helps manage conditions like melasma and hyperpigmentation.
Darker skin tones: We need to enforce sun protection as well. We can not assume that melanin will protect us. The unfortunate truth is that darker skin tones sometimes do not discover the development of various advanced forms of skin cancer until it is too late.
Heat avoidance: For people prone to melasma, minimizing exposure to heat and quickly cooling the skin when it gets hot can help prevent pigmentation. When necessary, wear mirrored sunglasses as they reflect the heat.
Diet control: Our skin reflects our internal nutrition. Maintain a balanced diet rich in copper- and zinc-based foods and supplements. Natural vitamin A, found in orange or red-based foods, supports overall skin health from the inside out and helps maintain the skin’s natural vitality.
Topical nutritional suggestions: Consider using products containing selenium, niacinamide, zinc, turmeric, and licorice root. A Vitamin C and E combination is effective for brightening the appearance of skin. Topical Vitamin A (retinoids) can make the skin more sensitive to daylight, meaning it should ideally be paired with a daily sunscreen.
Microcurrent treatments: Help brighten the look of skin by encouraging faster cellular turnover. They work beautifully when paired with skincare featuring brightening and evening ingredients.
Holistic wellness methods: Supporting the body's natural elimination processes through adequate hydration, a balanced diet, and healthy lifestyle choices can support overall skin health and radiance.
Light-based therapies:
IPL or laser therapy can burn pigmentation, which the body sheds over time.
Regular LED light therapy:
Green or yellow LED therapy can be effective depending on the skin type.
Exfoliation skin treatments: Microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, enzyme-based exfoliators, and Vitamin C, a mild exfoliator. (Enforce sun protection for the recommended period.)
Microbiome Balance: Maintaining a balanced skin environment is key for oily skin types prone to uneven tones. Seeking professional dermatological or holistic advice can help manage underlying congestion and maintain a clear complexion.
Please Note: Products containing AHAs, like glycolic acid, lactic acid, BHA, or topical retinoids, are often used to target the appearance of dark spots. However, they can sometimes cause skin sensitivity or irritation, and my holistic training advises looking into gentler alternatives.
Contradictions and side effects
Wilson’s Disease: Individuals with Wilson’s disease should restrict copper intake.
Allergic Reactions to any ingredients mentioned.
Conclusion
Understanding the types of melanin and the factors’ influencing pigmentation is critical to managing skin clarity. Even those with darker skin tones need to protect themselves from sun exposure to avoid hyperpigmentation and skin cancer. By recognizing the roles of genetics, diet, and environmental influences, individuals can take proactive steps to protect their skin from hyperpigmentation and other pigment-related issues. Adequate sun protection, balanced copper and zinc intake, antioxidants, dietary control, weight management, detoxification programs and appropriate skin care treatments can significantly improve skin appearance and health.
Disclaimer: The educational information provided does not diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Do your diligence and do your research and consult a professional when necessary.
Additionally, you may be interested in trying out the Zanqara Skin Care line, which offers a DC line tailored for oily, dry, and combination skin types to gently cleanse, balance excess sebum, and support a healthy skin barrier.
Health Canada regulates cosmetic products to ensure safety and compliance; cosmetics are intended to clean, improve, or alter the complexion and do not diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or medical condition.
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Ida Fanelli, Aesthetician, Reflexologist & IPL & Dolphin MPS Technician
Ida is a dedicated wellness professional and certified aesthetician (Marvel School of Beauty), providing personalized, home-based services since 1994. A certified reflexologist since 1993 (D'Arcy Lane Institute), she has integrated energy therapies and Ion Cleanse foot wellness sessions since 1998. In 2012, she became a certified Sharplight IPL Technician for skin rejuvenation and pigmentation correction, and in 2019 earned a specialized certification from the Center for Pain and Stress Research, using the Dolphin Neurostim system for Microcurrent Point Stimulation to support scar tissue release, skin rejuvenation, and pigmentation lightening. Ida is deeply committed to continuing education in complementary health to provide accessible, high-quality care. She also brings 12 years of experience as a hospital laboratory technologist in Microbiology and Biochemistry to her meticulous practice.
Disclaimer: The educational information provided in this article is for informational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease or medical condition. Always perform your own due diligence and consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist for personalized medical advice.
Related articles and books:
References:
IFLScience: Blaschko lines and their visibility in certain skin conditions.
Patient Care Online: Disorders of hyperpigmentation following Blaschko lines.
SpringerLink: Embryology and anatomy of Blaschko lines and their relevance in dermatology.
(Derm Collective).
(Skin Health) (Skincare.com) (Cleveland Clinic)
(CDC Blogs) (Tiege Hanley) (AAD) (Glow Dermspa)
(Dr Davin Lim) (MAOI)
Chemical and Pharmacologic Agents that Cause Hyperpigmentation or Hypopigmentation of the Skin
