Best Time and Products to Start a Skincare Routine
- Brainz Magazine
- Nov 12
- 13 min read
Updated: Nov 13
Ida is a certified aesthetician (graduate of Marvel School of Beauty), offering home-based services since 1994. Ida provides various holistic services, she graduated from Zanqara’s Holistica Skin Care’s Dermatician course in 1994, which required her to understand homeopathic remedies.
I will discuss the best age to start a skincare routine, the products that are safe and effective for different age groups, and the importance of a proper skincare routine in maintaining healthy skin.
A holistic guide for every stage of life
Our skin is the body’s largest organ and one of its most remarkable protectors. In childhood, it is thin, renews itself quickly, heals rapidly, and has a naturally strong barrier. But as we approach the pre-teen years, changes begin to surface. Around age 10 and into the teenage years, hormone shifts trigger more active oil glands, clogged pores, and often the first experiences of acne. This is when gentle cleansing, sun protection, and basic hydration become essential, not harsh treatments that can damage the skin barrier.
Because our skin continues to evolve, skincare is never one-size-fits-all. Processes like cell turnover, collagen production, and oil secretion gradually slow with age, and the skin’s needs change at every stage.
When it comes to skincare, timing matters as much as the products you choose. From the hormonal shifts of adolescence, to the busy, stress-filled 30s and 40s, and into the graceful aging process of the 50s and beyond, supporting skin with the proper routine at the right time can prevent premature damage and promote long-term radiance.
A genuinely holistic approach to skincare goes beyond creams and serums. It integrates nutrition, lifestyle, natural remedies, and mindful choices, all of which play an essential role in supporting skin from the inside out. In this guide, we’ll explore how skin evolves, the best age to begin different routines, ingredients to be cautious of, and safe, effective, age-appropriate practices that nurture confidence and well-being at every stage of life.
Young skin vs. adult skin: How it changes with age
Children's skin is thinner and more absorbent than adult skin. Both the epidermis (outer layer) and dermis (deeper layer) are less dense, making young skin more sensitive to external factors. The acid mantle, a thin protective film of oils and sweat, helps shield the skin from bacteria, allergens, and irritants. In children, the acid mantle is still developing, which increases susceptibility to irritation from harsh cleansers, fragrances, and potent active ingredients.
Because young skin absorbs ingredients quickly, it hydrates easily, but actives like retinoids, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid can penetrate too deeply, irritating the skin. On the positive side, rapid cell turnover, about every 14 days, allows cuts, scrapes, and pimples to heal quickly. However, melanin production is less responsive, making children more prone to sunburn than tanning. Daily sunscreen from an early age is therefore essential.
Hormonal changes: Age 10 vs. age 15
Around age 10 (sometimes earlier in girls, later in boys), children enter early puberty. In the brain, the hypothalamus stimulates the pituitary gland to produce hormones such as luteinizing hormone (LH) and follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH). At this stage, oil glands remain balanced, cell turnover is rapid, and skin generally heals quickly. Acne is minimal, though the first physical changes, breast development in girls and growth changes in boys, may appear. Hormones are beginning to stir, but not yet at the intensity that causes major skin issues.
At age 15
By age 15, most teens are in mid to late puberty, with testosterone and estrogen surging, strongly stimulating sebaceous glands. As oil production increases, pores clog more easily, leading to the appearance of acne. Cell turnover slows to about 21-28 days, meaning dead skin cells and breakouts linger longer than in childhood. Physical changes such as menstrual cycles, growth spurts, voice deepening, and muscle development are all tied to these heightened hormone levels.
Cortisol and stress impacts
Cortisol, the body's 'built-in alarm clock,' peaks in the morning to wake children and drops at night to promote sleep. Stress from school, friendships, or family pressures, as well as diet, can disrupt this rhythm. Fluctuations in cortisol and insulin can worsen acne and inflammation. Imbalanced cortisol also affects sleep, mood, and overall well-being. Hormones change every seven years. In teens, they affect body image and self-esteem, making skin health an essential factor in overall confidence. Understanding the role of cortisol in skin health, as a hormone that can worsen acne and inflammation, can help manage stress and maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Eye skin is more prone to irritation due to a thinner epidermis & dermis
The epidermis may be as thin as 0.3-0.5 mm in children and 0.5-1 mm in adults, and allows substances to penetrate more easily into deeper layers. The dermis underneath is also less dense, with fewer collagen and elastin fibers. Less structural support means less protection against friction, chemicals, and environmental stressors.
It has a higher permeability. The caveat is that it's better for healthy ingredients and more concerned for harsh ingredients that can penetrate too quickly, causing redness, burning, or inflammation. This area has fewer protective oil glands, resulting in a reduced natural oil barrier. Fewer sweat glands lead to lower fluid retention, causing the skin to dry out faster and react more strongly to irritants.
Its rich blood supply is close to the surface, making it more prone to irritation, inflammation, or swelling, for example, puffiness, redness, and dark circles. It has a thin fat layer that makes the skin less cushioned, so rubbing and pulling can cause damage more easily.
The above reasons explain why we see problems with the usage of actives in the adult and children's eye area. The skin decelerates as we age. Children under 12 have rapid skin cell turnover every 14 days, balanced oil glands, and intense hydration from natural hyaluronic acid. During the teen years, oil production increases, cell renewal slows slightly, and acne becomes more common.
From the age of 20s and beyond, collagen and elastin decline by about 1% per year, cell turnover slows to 28-35 days, and fine lines may begin to appear. Understanding these natural changes helps avoid both under- and over-treating the skin. Respecting skin at every stage, from fast-healing childhood skin to hormone-driven teen skin and the gradual slowing of adulthood, preserves health and prevents long-term damage.
Children, cosmetics, and early habits
Research shows that children under 12 often use skincare products not because they need them, but because they are mimicking their parents or experimenting. However, the products they reach for aren't always safe for young skin. It's similar to mistaking medicine for candy, products may look harmless but can cause irritation or long-term harm.
Children may inadvertently use adult-oriented products, increasing the risk of irritation, inflammation, or sun sensitivity. North America doesn't tightly regulate cosmetic labelling, so terms like hypoallergenic or natural lack strict definitions, and anti-aging creams are often sold as cosmetics to bypass rigorous safety testing. This lack of regulation means that what looks harmless may actually be harmful to young skin. It's essential to be cautious and attentive to the products children use.
Barrier disruption
The skin barrier is a thin, protective layer that prevents moisture loss and shields the skin from environmental irritants such as bacteria and allergens. During teenage years, when the skin is still developing, it's essential to be cautious when using potent actives. These products can compromise the skin's barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and inflammation.
Sun sensitivity
Retinoids and chemical exfoliants such as glycolic and salicylic acid increase photosensitivity. Without proper sun protection, teens risk sunburn, pigmentation changes, and long-term UV damage.
Delayed healing and scarring
Damaged skin barriers heal more slowly, meaning that minor pimples or abrasions may leave marks or scars. Over-aggressive exfoliation can exacerbate this effect, particularly during hormone-driven acne phases.
Psychological impact
Flaws in the skin's appearance promote anxiety and reduce self-esteem. Irritation, redness, or acne flare-ups can affect body image. By supporting the skin with gentle routines and a good diet, we can increase confidence, knowing that we are taking the best care of our skin.
Why teens should be cautious with potent actives
Some dermatologists advise teens to avoid skincare products with excessive active ingredients, such as retinoids, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and strong detergents, because they can damage the skin's protective barrier, causing dryness, peeling, irritation, and even worsening acne. Instead, they recommend a simple routine with a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sun protection to protect developing skin and support a healthy barrier.
Risks and dangers of benzoyl peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is used to help dye hair and for disinfection. It contains an unstable form of oxygen. Benzoyl peroxide contains a similar form of oxygen. It is a well-established acne treatment, but it is not risk-free, especially for children and teens with more delicate, reactive skin.
It can cause skin irritation, redness, dryness, peeling, stinging, and burning are common side effects, particularly when starting use or applying higher concentrations. Allergic reactions, though rare with benzoyl peroxide, can cause contact dermatitis or true allergic reactions with swelling, blistering, or severe itching.
Like glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide increases photosensitivity, raising the risk of sunburn and pigmentation changes if sun protection isn’t used. Overuse can weaken the skin’s protective barrier, making it more prone to irritation, infections, or rebound oiliness.
Like hydrogen peroxide, it can bleach fabrics, hair, and even eyebrows if not applied carefully. In children under 12, the skin is thinner and more vulnerable, so use benzoyl peroxide with medical guidance. Even in teens, starting with the lowest concentration (2.5-5%) and slowly increasing frequency helps minimize irritation.
Many dermatology and skincare articles emphasize that while benzoyl peroxide is effective, its drying and irritating nature is one of its most significant limitations. Experts frequently publish strategies to counteract these effects, which also serve as a reminder of the dangers.
Pairing it with niacinamide improves acne outcomes and reduces irritation. Niacinamide helps to calm inflammation and strengthen the skin's barrier.
The glycolic acid trend
While glycolic acid can be effective in controlled, professional treatments, it carries risks for teens. Misuse it, at high concentrations, or without dermatological guidance, glycolic acid can cause complications, including peeling, pigmentation changes, and, in sporadic cases, scarring. Risks heighten for deeper chemical peels in individuals with darker skin tones after treatment or when the client fails to use sun protection.
Paradoxical acne flare-ups
While marketers promote excessive use of strong glycolic acid to combat wrinkles and acne, excessive or improper use can trigger rebound breakouts. Stripping the skin of natural oils can stimulate overproduction of sebum, clogging pores further and sometimes worsening the very problem teens are trying to treat. This same effect occurs when we place alcohol on a pimple, the skin responds to dryness by producing even more oil.
The retinol trend
Retinol, a lab-made vitamin A derivative, was initially developed for acne. Today, they market it as an anti-aging ingredient, even for preteens. Social media and cosmetic brands have normalized their use among young audiences, creating pressure for early adoption of adult routines. Retailers report children under 12 asking for retinol despite warnings about potential harm. Retinol should never be used by children unless prescribed by a dermatologist for acne.
Risks include:
Irritation and retinoid dermatitis
Increased sun sensitivity
Barrier disruption
Dry eyes (affecting up to 20% of adult users) and children have been reported to experience worse side effects by doctors.
Delayed healing
Dermatologists' and surgeons' concerns
Dermatologists sometimes prescribe stronger vitamin A-based treatments such as tretinoin or adapalene for severe teenage acne, but always under strict medical supervision. Typically, these are introduced around age 12, with younger children only treated in exceptional cases and under close monitoring. Experts consistently caution that young skin is too fragile for potent actives. Plastic surgeons also warn that repeated barrier damage in childhood from ingredients like retinol, glycolic acid, and BHAs can have long-term consequences for skin health. As a result, such treatments should be reserved for adults seeking anti-aging benefits or for adolescents with severe acne under professional care. High-concentration chemical peels and potent AHA formulations, in particular, should be avoided altogether in developing skin.
Global and legislative action in the United States
In the United States, Bill AB 2491 attempted to ban vitamin A derivatives, AHAs, and vitamin C for children under 13 years old, it did not pass legislation in 2024.
Canada: The Canadian Dermatology Association advises parents to look for products with its approved symbol for safety.
These measures underscore the seriousness of protecting developing skin, but parental guidance remains essential.
Sweden, a major pharmacy chain, restricted retinol, chemical exfoliants, and enzyme exfoliants such as papain and bromelain for children under 15.
Some cosmetic brands and retailers that produce anti-aging products include "Keep Out of Reach of Children" warnings on the label.
Recommended safe skincare for the following ages
Children under 12 should use a gentle cleanser, a light moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily. Tweens between 12 and 14 years old, add oil-free moisturizer, mineral sunscreen, and natural spot treatment if needed.
Why professional guidance matters in Canada, family doctors aren’t usually trained in skincare. A nurse practitioner once told me patients constantly asked them for skincare recommendations, but the clinic’s staff didn’t have the knowledge to guide them. For personalized and safe skincare plans, it’s best to speak with a Board-Certified Dermatologist, a Licensed Esthetician, or a Naturopathic Dermatologist (especially for ingredient awareness). Holistic dermatology focuses on treating the human body as a whole and implementing lifestyle changes to enhance the treatment and prognosis of skin disease.
Building a teen-friendly skincare routine
Instead of harsh actives, dermatologists recommend a simple, balanced approach.
Teens between 15 and 19 years old should wash their face twice a day with a gentle, non-stripping foaming cleanser, use a non-comedogenic sunscreen, apply a light moisturizer, and use spot treatments as needed. Proper stress management and nutrition help keep acne at bay. Avoid excessive retinoids, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid.
Labels generally advise against using potent actives such as retinol, glycolic acid, or benzoyl peroxide until around the age of 12. This guideline ties to the hormonal changes that occur during puberty, which significantly affect skin behaviour and care needs. Since puberty begins at different ages for each child, these age labels serve as a general benchmark, encouraging parents and caregivers to wait until after puberty has started before introducing more potent active ingredients.
Pro tip: Layer wisely
For best results, avoid mixing products from different skincare lines. Each line is formulated to work synergistically, and combining them can disrupt balance or increase the risk of irritation. When layering products, give your skin adequate time between steps, especially with active ingredients like vitamin C, exfoliating acids, or retinol alternatives. This pause helps prevent unwanted chemical interactions and ensures each product delivers its intended benefits. Also, remember that certain ingredients are best used at specific times of day, for example, some lose effectiveness in sunlight or may even cause sensitivity when worn during the day.
Light moisturizing: Support the barrier with a fragrance-free moisturizer.
Daily sun protection: Wear broad rim hats, use broad-spectrum SPF 30+ to prevent UV damage and post-acne marks.
Spot treatments (if needed): Choose products with lower concentrations of actives under professional guidance.
Healthy lifestyle: Adequate sleep, balanced diet, stress management, and hydration all directly influence skin health. This kind of care supports healing, prevents long-term damage, and helps teens feel more confident.
For 20s+: Focus on prevention and targeted treatments. Introduce retinol or vitamin C only if needed, ideally under professional guidance.
Holistic alternatives to retinol
If you're looking for retinol-like results without irritation, there are gentler, holistic options to consider. Plant-based retinoids such as bakuchiol mimic many of retinol's skin-renewing benefits, like smoothing fine lines and improving tone, without the harsh side effects.
You can also nourish your skin from within by eating foods rich in vitamin A, including carrots, sweet potatoes, and leafy greens, which naturally support healthy skin.
For exfoliation, enzyme-based treatments provide a safe and effective alternative. They gently dissolve dead skin cells and have been trusted for over 20 years, without the redness, dryness, or sensitivity that chemical exfoliants can cause.
Lifestyle habits for lifelong skin health
A healthy diet with antioxidant-rich foods supports collagen and repair. Get lots of beauty sleep. Circadian rhythms regulate melatonin, which supports skin repair and barrier health. Poor sleep accelerates aging and dullness. Breathing, meditation, or reflexology can help restore balance and reduce inflammation. Exercise enhances oxygen and nutrient delivery to skin cells. Limit exposure to smoke, pollution, and blue light from screens, which can contribute to pigmentation changes and collagen breakdown.
Support the skin's natural function rather than forcing it with aggressive actives. Gentle care, sun protection, and nourishment come first. Early prevention protects skin, saving trauma and cost long-term.
Global skincare wisdom
Asian skincare uses rice water, green tea, ginseng, multi-step routines, and holistic balance.
African skincare uses shea butter, baobab, argan oil, and climate-conscious, community-based traditions.
Indigenous skincare uses aloe vera, tea tree, and coconut oil, honouring ancestral knowledge and plant-based healing.
Across cultures, the focus is gentle, nourishing care that respects skin's natural balance, a core principle in holistic skincare.
Conclusion
Healthy skin is about balance, protecting it when it is strong and supporting it as natural processes slow. For children and teens, simplicity is safest, gentle cleansing, light moisturizing, and daily sunscreen. They should avoid potent actives like retinoids, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid until skin renewal naturally slows or under medical supervision for acne.
Hormonal and emotional changes in adolescence rapidly influence skin health. Around age 10, skin is resilient, transparent, and quick to heal. By age 15, surges in testosterone, estrogen, cortisol, and insulin often trigger oiliness, clogged pores, and breakouts. While potent actives seem to be quick fixes, overuse can damage the skin barrier, increase sun sensitivity, delay healing, and even worsen acne.
This gentler approach may seem "less popular," but research confirms its importance. I've shared this evidence in my Brainz Magazine article "Synthetic vs. Natural Retinoids – Beauty Without Compromising Your Health," and in my guide "Exfoliation: A Guide to AHA's, BHA's, and Enzymes for Youthful Healthy Skin," and in my podcast, Where Science Meets Self-Care with Ida Fanelli in the episode "The Vitamin A Debate: Retinoids and Wellness."
And “Exfoliation: A Guide for Youthful”, healthy skin focus on a simple, barrier-supporting routine. It's safer and more effective for long-term skin health. By balancing the skin with gentle care and stress management, teens can navigate these years with clearer skin and greater confidence, building habits that will serve them well into adulthood.
Premature use of skincare in children is sometimes unnecessary. Unless you have an abnormal skin condition, skin care isn't a race, remember, those who cross the start line too early in a race get disqualified. It's a lifelong partnership with your body's largest organ. Respect it, protect it, and let it thrive at every stage.
With growing awareness, expect cosmetic brands to increasingly prioritize safer, age-appropriate products for young skin, helping the next generation embrace beauty without compromise. And to every child or teen, remember that your natural skin tells a story of growth and change. Self-confidence is your greatest asset. I use and recommend the Zanqara Skin Care line.
To try the Zanqara Skin Care line, you need to set up a Zanqara account to make purchases. To do this, visit this page or use this link, then email here.
Use Promo Code IDA10 to get 10% off your first purchase.
Ida Fanelli, Aesthetician, Reflexologist, IPL Technician
Ida is a certified aesthetician (graduate of Marvel School of Beauty), offering home-based services since 1994. Ida provides various holistic services, she graduated from Zanqara’s Holistica Skin Care’s Dermatician course in 1994, which required her to understand homeopathic remedies. Ida has been a certified reflexologist since 1993 (graduate of D’Arcy Lane Institute). She has also been practicing Healing Energy since 1998 and has added the Ion Cleanse Foot Detox to her therapies. In 2012, Ida became a certified Sharplight Laser (IPL) Technician. She enjoys learning new techniques which can benefit her clients. In 2019, she received certification from the Center for Pain and Stress Research (CPSR.) She can now speed up the healing of scars and help with pain caused by surgical scars to her list of specialties.
She enjoys continuing her education in the complementary health field. Many can testify that Ida is committed to ensuring her clients access adequate and affordable quality service and treatment.
Beyond her many years of experience as a holistic practitioner, Ida draws on her 12 years of experience as a hospital laboratory technologist in Microbiology and Biochemistry.
